New
York Times, July, 2001
New ItaliansCascina, a new Italian Place, has opened at 647
Ninth Avenue (45th Street). The restaurant which has a wood-burning
oven, is named for the Cascina Orsolina vineyard in the Pledgemont
region of Italy owned by the family of one of the partners, Mikele
DeNegri. Photographs of the winery decorate the Restaurant's deep
red walls.
Clinton
Chronicle,
One
night in June I was delighted to see that Cascina, the new, long-awaited
restaurant from the Barletta Family, had finally opened. So in I
eagerly went. Let me tell you all about it:
Owner
Emilio Barletta (who also operates Trattoia Dopo Teatro, Osteria
Fiorentina and Zanzibar) partnered with Mikele Degri and enlisted
executive chef Cristiano Pera to create a scintillating culinary
experience in Hell's Kitchen.
Located
on 9th Avenue at 45th Street (just next door to the popular Zanzibar)
Cascina's name refers to the house of the vineyard where family
and friends gather for meals, linger over bottles of wine and plates
brimming with the bounty of the season. Now, Cascina brings the
essence of that bucolic life to the center of Hell's Kitchen, the
restaurant rant capitol of Midtown West. Chef Cristiano Pera, who
comes from Northern Italy, completed his culinary studies at the
famed G.Pastori School in Varallo, Italy. He then honed his skills
by turning out an array of delights all over the world from Milan,
Italy to San Tropez, Francce; from Switzerland to Istanbul to London.
Cristiano arrived in NYC in 1997 and, while he was Executive Chef
at Artusi's in Manhattan, met Mikele. Mikele realized that Cristiano's
youth, talent, seasoned wit and love of cooking made him the perfect
chief chef for Cascina. Now, in the new restaurant, Christiano expertly
prepares a menu steeped in the tradition of country-style Italian
fare: good cheese, fresh produce, and hand picked meats and fish.
One of the delights of Cascina is that it has two menus: their basic
menu and a large changing selection of daily specials.
"I
like to work with simple, healthy Italian tastes while gone beyond
the standard vinegar and oil flavorings into more exotic flavors
like ginger and lemongrass," Cristiano says. "I think
of my cooking as Italian with a touch of New York style."
Mikele
DeNegri, who comes from Northern Italy, brings Cascina that region's
cool sophistication as well as some of the best wines from his family's
vineyard, Cascina Orsolina. Serving as the U.S. outpost for the
vineyard the restaurant offers a wine list featuring reds, whites
and champagnes by the glass or by the bottle. One of my favorite
is the prized Chardonnary named after Mikele's Mother, Rosanna.
This exceptional wine offers a rich, full bouquet and a bright,
full-bodied taste so rarely found in other dry whites. It is a true
discovery! The DeNigris also bring the meats from Northern while
Barlettas proffer the fish from the south... and both share concern
for freshness and crispness in their preparations. The menu thus
changes as it follows the cuts of the season and the market. So
the marriage between the families creates a beautiful harmony and
balance in Cascina's offerings. "We want to generate magic
and make Cascina a transporting escape from the hectic world outside."
Mikele old me, And his they achieve.
Enter
Cascina and you find yourself in an elegant, rustic space designed
by owner and architect Emilio Barletta. The warm-looking brick walls,
roughhewn woods, and earthy colors highlight a beautiful sculptured
stone and brick oven. Brass chandeliers cast soft lighting. As you
enter you may sit at a cozy little bar on the left and to the right
communal tables beckon you to relax and mingle with friends. Up
a few steps to the rear in the main dining area a wall of paned
windows with lush greenery creates a garden backdrop that augments
the dining pleasure. As you sit and take in the loveliness of the
ambiance, you can study the basic menu which offers choices from
the grill: mixed vegetables ($8), shrimp and lemongrass spiedini
($15), swordfish and leeks ($21), chicken with arugola and tomatoes
($16) ribeye steak with shallots and fresh thyme ($22); from the
oven: hand-crafted pizzas such as flocci with robiola cheese - creme
de la creme version of ricotta cheese - and truffle oil. I just
finished devouring one of these delicious pizzas with a thin crust
on top and bottom of the pipe and could easily have another; Panini:
home made breads such as Toscano bread with salami ($7)or with goat
cheese & smoked salmon (yummy at $8) and more. You may also
choose from the changing selection of daily specials presented on
a menu board: risotto with porcini mushrooms, carpaccio with thinly
sliced truffles - white or black depending on the season - both
of which taste divine. No wonder, once upon a time, truffles were
reserved exclusively for royalty! Some more exotic special include:
roasted quail in port sauce, roast duck with flavored honey and
crushed red pepper sauce, chicken roulade with truffles, tender
rack of lamb in herb crust. You just must leave room for Cascina's
scrumptious desserts such as their home-made chocolate soufflé
filled with a chocolate cream made with fresh marscapone, Tiramisu
Cascina, and zabaglione - the signature Italian dessert served warm
over fresh berries and tropical fruits such as mangos, kiwis and
bananas. Cascina will also create a special menu to suit your particular
private event or party. As the Barlettas put it "Cascina was
created to bring the bounty of the land to the people." And
Mikele DeNegri adds that "Cascina wants to server the people
of the West Side in keeping with the spirit of the West Side."
Open for lunch and dinner 7 days per week, from noon to 12AM. Brunch
is available on Saturday and Sunday from noon to 4 PM (in addition
to lunch and dinner). Cascina, 647 Ninth Avenue (212) 245-4422.